Mastering Shutter Speed for Stunning Seascape Photography

Seascape photography offers a unique blend of challenges and opportunities, with the ocean providing dynamic, challenging, and ever-changing scenes. Over the years, I have learned and practiced how different shutter speeds can dramatically alter the mood and feel of your images. Here’s what I’ve learned and some actionable tips to elevate your seascape photography.

Fast Shutter Speeds

Capturing the raw energy of crashing waves requires a fast shutter speed. Setting your camera to 1/500 s or faster can freeze the motion, showcasing every droplet in stunning detail. This technique is perfect for high-drama shots, such as waves smashing against rocks or surfers gliding through the surf.

When working with fast shutter speeds, light becomes a key consideration. Bright conditions allow for higher speeds without sacrificing exposure, but in lower light, increasing the ISO or widening the aperture might be necessary. Just remember that higher ISOs can introduce noise, so finding a balance is essential. Generally, here in Ireland, when we have big waves, it is during a storm, which also brings rain and dark clouds. Of course, this makes it a challenge to keep the ISO down. However, it is worth noting that the combination of the latest sensors with noise reduction in your favorite software can help you overcome these challenges.

Long Exposures

Long exposures transform turbulent water into smooth, inviting surfaces. Using a shutter speed of 1/4 s or longer—sometimes stretching to several seconds—can give your images a calm and dreamlike quality. For this, a tripod is non-negotiable to eliminate camera shake. That being said, some cameras now allow you to get several seconds of exposure handheld without any blurring, so a tripod, while important now, could one day be seen as a thing of the past.

Bright conditions often necessitate an ND filter to reduce light intake. Experiment with different densities to find the right balance. Pay attention to the duration of your exposure; longer times will create smoother water, but going too long may cause you to lose essential details in the scene.

Turn off your image stabilization if you are going for long exposures while using a tripod, as the micro-movements when it is adjusting will result in a soft image.

Mid-Range Shutter Speeds

Sometimes, you want to capture the essence of motion without fully freezing it or smoothing out the water. Mid-range shutter speeds, such as 1/15 s to 1/60 s, strike this balance beautifully. They preserve the texture of moving water while introducing a touch of blur to convey energy and rhythm.

This approach works particularly well with gentle tides or slow-moving waves. To stabilize your shot, consider using a tripod or handheld technique paired with image stabilization.

If the flow of the water is very fast, you don’t need a very long exposure time to achieve your shot, as the movement of the water will result in it traveling faster through the sensor’s view and give you the right texture. Many would say there are rules for this; I find that experimenting with different shutter speeds while on location and reviewing the images is the best approach, as science books are great but don’t beat the actual experiment.

Understanding Tides and Weather

Seascape photography is as much about planning as it is about technique. Tides and weather conditions significantly impact your results. Low tide often reveals rocks, tide pools, and other foreground elements, while high tide can add drama as waves surge closer to the camera. Never go to the coast without looking at the tides—never. There is a high chance you will get caught out; either the scene won’t be what you hoped it would be, or you will be retreating fast from an incoming tide.

Weather influences lighting and mood. Overcast skies produce soft, even light, while stormy conditions add a moody atmosphere. Before heading out, consult tide charts and weather forecasts to make informed decisions about when and where to shoot. When you arrive, take some time to study the waves, look to see where they are breaking, and assess whether there’s a chance of being swept away by a rogue or strong wave.

Composition Tips

The ocean can be visually overwhelming, so strong composition is crucial. Incorporating leading lines, such as the curve of a wave or a shoreline, helps guide the viewer’s eye. Foreground elements like rocks, driftwood, or crashing waves add depth, while keeping your horizon straight ensures a balanced image.

When composing, consider the rule of thirds to create visually pleasing layouts. Using the natural flow of the water or positioning key elements off-center can make your image more dynamic and engaging.

Remember, these are guidelines for composing; however, there are many ways to approach a scene. I’ve found that if it works for the scene, then go with it. I’ve had many horizons at the very top of the image, not following the “rules,” and there are other times I’ve found that putting the horizon lower in the frame works better if the sky is also interesting.

Gear Essentials for Seascapes

Shooting near the ocean requires preparation. A sturdy tripod is a must for long exposures, while an ND filter is invaluable for controlling light. Carry a lens cloth to combat saltwater spray and a rain cover to protect your camera in rough conditions. These are not optional if you want to ensure you have the best chance of getting different types of shots.

Using weather-sealed gear can extend your equipment’s lifespan. After each shoot, clean your gear thoroughly to prevent salt and sand damage. The same goes for you: wear weatherproof clothing, stay warm and dry, and bring spare socks. You’re not a seascape photographer if your feet aren’t getting into the water.

Post-Processing Tips

Editing plays a significant role in refining your seascape photos. Tools like Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop can help enhance textures, bring out details in the water, and adjust contrast for added drama. They can also help with removing noise from that cloudy, dark, and moody shoot of the breaking wave.

Focus on subtle adjustments to highlights and shadows to retain the natural look of the scene. Dodging and burning can draw attention to key areas, while selective sharpening enhances the crispness of waves or rocks. Most importantly, have fun with your edits—but not too much fun. It’s easy to slide those sliders too far and end up with psychedelic colors as a result. The key is subtlety. Also, get up from the desk once in a while, walk around, and then come back to see how “spinal tap” you went during your last editing marathon.

Final Thoughts

Mastering shutter speed unlocks endless creative possibilities in seascape photography. Whether you aim to freeze a wave’s power or create a tranquil long exposure, experimenting with these techniques will help you capture the ocean’s essence. With careful planning and practice, every visit to the coast can yield breathtaking results. Every wave is different, so no two shots will ever be the same. This is the best thing about seascape photography, but also potentially the worst, as you’ll end up taking many shots and no doubt deleting the vast majority of them when you get home.

If you have anything to add, let me know in the comments below. I’d love to chat with you.

Darren J. Spoonley's picture

Darren J. Spoonley, is an Ireland-based outdoor photographer, Podcaster, Videographer & Educator with a passion for capturing the beauty of our world.

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12 Comments

Great Article and I shoot seascapes a lot.

Agree with the comments and thoughts

I tend to be a 1/4 second 30 second or 4 minutes

My 1/4 seconds are for motion and texture

My 30 seconda are for fattening of ocean/waters

And then 3 to 4 minutes fot the fine arr/warped look

I very rarely deviate from these.

One below is 4 minutes.

Thank you Nev, interesting 4 minutes approach too! That shot is stunning ! Thanks for your comment, Delighted you enjoyed it

What exposure are you at here ? 4 mins must be evening or night? Or did you lower the iso?

Breathtaking photography and a thoughtful, visually stimulating article❣️

Thanks a lot, I’m delighted you enjoyed it. Seascape photography is highly addictive

Tot last wave photo is stunning.
Through the year I learned to appreciate extreme short times (1/8000) as well with waterfall close ups or behind it.

Thanks very much

I watched the first few minutes, and saw what I wanted to see. Not and instructional video where the only instruction is use a slow shutter speed. Nice to see somebody cover fast as well as slow shutter speeds.

Thank you very much ! Hope you can watch the remainder too when you get the time :-)

Great Information! Very good things to remember and a cheat sheet on hand or on a device! I am going to add something very few are aware of and not to cause a change in camera brands. When Sony first came out with the A7 models of the basic and the R and S there was the ability to buy and download to your camera apps of a many. The one I will mention here is "Digital Filter" it allows you to select up to 3 sections of an image but here I will mention just 2 sections Foreground and Sky. The app allows you to use any camera setting for each section. Like here different SS for the waves BUT what if you have fast moving clouds that come with storms then you can have a fast SS for clouds and a slow or slower SS for waves. The app prosses both images in camera with adjustments in horizon before sending to your SD card and it also give results in jpeg or RAW or both.
As far as I know the apps are no longer available from https://www.playmemoriescameraapps.com/portal/
But there maybe a used A7 model out there with the apps on it, the A7RM2 I think is the best to use the app. There maybe all the other apps on the camera too!
I mention this to help from carrying a lot of filters and filter holders either for up front of at the rear of lenses. Info also the filters for the rear of lenses are better due to not affected by the internal glass, example if using a ND filter on a wide angle lens up front if not using the thumb and forefinger for where the sun is you may get the blue hump in the center but the good news is the rear filters are not affected by that. I once did a scouting trip with a 12mm lens for a MW spot to capture and had the Clear Sky filter on the back of the lens and found no it worked no matter the angle even straight on to sun no hump.
But like stated do not change a lens in a salt air environment.
1. I used the app for night MW's over lit towns with the A7SM1
2. Clear Night rear filter pointing into the sun, sun a little to the left, colors using this filter are true to what is seen, just info!
I personally believe filter makers got Sony to get rid of the apps, yes they take a little tike to setup and run, because they may cut down on sells.
Info also the Mod 1's and 2's are still being sold NEW in some stores but without the apps, It would be nice for all if someone picked up the ball and made them still available with some videos with sound to tell how to use.
But if looking to buy a Mod 1 or 2 ask if it has the apps on it for used dealers always reset a camera first thing without looking!!!
The app also could be used for a full moon night and surf image making for pinpoint stars in the end, just an idea!

Would love to know what each photo was taken with re speed and iso . I am still after all these years always a tad confused with f stop / iso/ shutter speed relationships so I am always experimenting . I am not sure if these are “ correct “ I prefer the darker one which had a 400 iso and fast speed. The bright one was just adapting the speed from default settings

Here’s an explanation I use which seems to work! Imagine that light is water and your sensor is made of paper! Fstop controls the size of the hole that allows water in, ISO is what the paper is made from, the higher the iso the more akin to toilet paper in terms of quality and shutter speed is how long you leave the gap open! The longer you do the more chance of paper disintegration! For water aim for a shutter speed of either 1/8, 1/4 or half a second! Any longer and the water looses it texture! Now all you have to do is look at your histogram as this will tell you what adjusting the fstop and ISO will do to your image ! Avoid hitting the right and side of it as it will blow the whites and you won’t get it back ! Hope that helps